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Please view the updated version of this Tutorial by clicking Here.
Good News! -Your Skoolie, Van, or RV Water System is easier to set up and install than most people imagine. It is DIY-Friendly, and can be accomplished with a little research, good planning, and a few simple tools.
Your Water System is also Scalable and easy to upgrade. If you know ahead of time that you might want add more fixtures at a future date (Sinks, Laundry, Showers, etc.) you can “rough them in” when you do your initial install, and complete the plumbing on those items later.
There is a lot of “wiggle room” on the size and scope of your Water System. For some, it can be as simple as placing Fresh Water in a Jug above a sink and draining the Grey Water into another small jug that you literally take out and dump when it's full.
Can I do a full Gravity Fed Water System?: - “Sort of.” A Fresh Water Tank can be mounted near (or on) the roof and used to feed the Fixtures, however you will get very little water pressure. Typically, it won’t be enough to drive a water heater, so you’d be heating bath water on the stove and taking cold showers.
Bear in mind that water can be very heavy and unstable. All that water sloshing around could make life interesting when you travel. The most common Skoolie, Van, RV Water Setup is similar to what you have in your house, with a Fresh Water Tank mounted low, and a pump used to move water through the system.
What we'll call a “Full Service Skoolie Water System” would look like this:
On the outside of your Rig, you have a Fill Inlet where you use a hose to fill your Fresh Water Tank. Additionally, you can add a “City” or “Shore” Water Inlet that can use Pressurized Water from a hose to run your full system without draining your Tank or using your Pump. (You must bypass your Fresh Water Tank and your Water Pump on this plumbing line with a Check Valve.) Your Main Water Line comes out of the bottom of your Fresh Water Tank and feeds, through a Pre-Filter to your Water Pump. Then, another Check Valve (one from the Water Pump Line and one from The City Water Line). (Much like an Isolator Switch, these ensure that water only flows one direction.)
The 2 Water Lines join at a T-Connector, with the output being the Main Water Line to the rest of your System. That line is split via another T Connector to supply the Water Heater. From There, The Hot and Cold Water Lines feed your Fixtures (Sink, Shower, etc.). Water drains from your Fixtures to a Grey Water Tank (usually mounted under the Rig). A Grey Water Drain allows you to drain the Tank as needed. Click the Chart to the right for a visual aid.
Tech Tip: - 1.) Don't forget to install a “Trap” right before the Grey Water Tank to keep odors from traveling into the living space through the drains. 2.) Use a Spigot (or “Hose Bibb”) for a Grey Water Drain so you can hook up a hose and direct the water wherever you desire.
Let's address common questions and concerns regarding Skoolie, Vanlife, and RV Plumbing:
Do I have to use PEX Pipe in my Van?: - No, but you should. Technically, you can use Copper, PVC, or Galvanized if you are more comfortable working with them, but remember that the Rig will be bumping and jostling around much more than a house. Also, you may have a greater risk of pipes freezing in cold weather. PEX Fittings cost more, and we, at Skoolie Supply, are all about doing things on the cheap, but this is one area where spending the extra cash is far worth the expense, if not an outright necessity. The Speed and Ease of installation alone when using PEX make it the best choice. It's flexible, more resistant to cold, and a lot easier to repair.
Note: If you purchased an older existing RV, the factory plumbing is probably very cheap. It is often constructed with a series rubber hoses and plastic connectors, which will eventually break or leak once used for Full Time RV Living. It's a little more complicated to retro-fit these with better lines (PEX Pipe) and connectors, but it can be done. *You might as well upgrade the Sinks and Shower while you're doing it.
What are RV Water Inlets?: - You will need to refill your Fresh Water Tank from time to time. The most common way of doing this is by using a hose (Campground, Gas Station, Someone's house...). The Tank Fill is usually Gravity Fed, so this Inlet needs to be higher than the top of your Tank. You can add a second Inlet to run your entire Water System off of the hose as long as your parked in one place (“City” or “Shore” Water). *Remember that this makes it a fully pressurized system, so you'll need to bypass your Fresh Water Tank (so it doesn't overfill) and your Pump (so it doesn't burn out).
It is very important that you use a Drinking Water hose that is Lead and BPA free to fill your Fresh Water Tank. Use an entirely different hose to drain Grey Water, and for other applications, to avoid contamination. Click the image, or have a look on The Water Page for a few options.
Which, or What Size Fresh Water Tank is best for a Van?: - The most important thing to remember is to Only use a Certified Potable Water Tank. Even if you buy separate Drinking Water, the water from your tank will still be in the shower, on your dishes, and in your clothes. A Potable Water Tank is certified not to leech plastics or chemicals into the water it holds. -The size of your tank will be based largely on the room you have for it in your Design. Also, How big and how much water you use will dictate how often you refill. So, “The biggest one you can fit.” is really the best answer.
We’re big fans of the “Half Moon”, by High Country. Easy to “tetris” in and good capacity.
Mounting a Water Tank: - There are some creative ideas out there, but ultimately you want it completely stable an immobile. They usually come with brackets, flanges, or mounting bands, but if nothing else, you can frame it in with lumber or metal. Some people just use ratchet straps, but we’d advise something more permanent.
Do I have to Vent my RV Water Tank?: - Yes, Fresh Water and Grey Water as well. Anytime you add or use water from a tank it moves air to fill the space. Without proper venting the water won't flow.
Do I need a “Pre Filter” for an RV Water Pump?: - Yes. If you are using an Electric Water Pump a Pre Filter will prolong, if not save, the life of your pump at some point. Sludge or small particulates can easily end up in your Water Tank. Pumps aren't crazy expensive, but they can be difficult to replace (and potentially impossible if you happen to be boondocking when it goes). If you're exclusively using a Manual Water Pump you can get by without one, but it's still a good idea to mount one between the exit line or “drain” of your tank and the inlet of your Water Pump. Make sure you can access it, as you will need to regularly change the screen.
What's the best RV Water Pump?: - Factors to consider are Gallons Per Minute (“GPM”), system pressure, Power Usage, and Noise or Interference. Also, bonus points if you get one that will run “dry” or is “self-priming”. It's pretty easy to find a 3 GPM, 41-45PSI, 12 Volt RV Water Pump these days, and while that makes for great pressure, you could get by with less and not notice a huge difference. (Some Pumps will allow you to adjust the flow. Feel free to experiment.) You can often cut a lot of the noise simply by mounting a piece of foam rubber (like an old mouse pad) between the Pump and the wall. Models vary greatly in this regard. Some Pumps are just plain Louder than others, so read the reviews. They don't tend to vary as much in power consumption but the data can be surprisingly hard to find. Take some time looking into this, or just take our word for it and click the image to shop.
Where can I find an “On Demand” Water Pump?: - In truth, they are all sort of “on demand” as they should shut off once the line is pressurized. (If they don't, you have a leak.) If you’re looking for a Faucet that switches your Water Pump on and off, you want something like the image to the right. You would need a similar setup for your shower.
Can I just use a Manual Pump?: - Yes. Absolutely! We'll call this a “Self Service” Water System. Manual pumps work one of two ways. They either pressurize the entire system (just like tapping a keg of beer), or they “pull” water from the line as you pump. In either event you'd likely want to keep this setup small and simple. You'd probably lose the City Water Hookup and the Water Heater, so you'll be heating water on the stove for your bath. Although, a Solar Shower presents a really interesting option here.
Tech Tip: - An outdoor Spigot is incredibly useful. Simply mounting this lower than your Fresh Water tank would make it gravity-fed (a great help with a Manual Pump system), but if you've got a City Water line you would want to install it after the 2 lines join (off the Main Water Line).
Do I need an Inline RV Water Filter:? - Not necessarily, but you can never be sure of the water quality you'll get filling up at multiple locations, so it isn't a bad idea. The same argument for a Pre-Filter (particulates in your Fresh Water Tank) apply, but if your goal is simply drinking water purification, you don't really need it for the Shower or Laundry. A Counter-Top or Tap-Mounted Drinking Water Filter (as shown on The Water Page) will accomplish this. If you go with a hidden, in-line Filter, just remember that you'll be changing the filter every month or two, so keep it where you can reach it.
What RV Water Heater should I use for my Bus Conversion?: - With so many options, Tank, Tankless, On Demand, Solar… This may be decided more on your Build Design than anything else. You will use less water, and take shorter showers once you're on The Road. This is one of the creature comforts we tend to give up more than others. It's best to do your own research on this. Check out the ones we've listed on The Water Page. - Or go with a Solar Water Heater as described in the Unique Ideas Blog.
Do I need to install Shut off Valves: - Yes! Whether you are plumbing a Bus, Van, or working on the water system in your house, a shutoff valve for each individual Fixture is very highly recommended. Turning a couple of knobs when you have to work on or replace a sink or shower valve is far superior to shutting the whole system down.
RV Toilet, RV Shower, RV Washer Dryer, etc.: - The discussion about toilets is an entire Blog in itself. - Stay Tuned-. If you are on the fence about a Composting Toilet, we'd advise just going with a Cassette Style, or even a 5-gallon bucket with a seat until you make the call. If it's more of a financial decision, check back often as we will be doing a Blog on a DIY Composter that will save some money over a brand name. - Note: Black Water systems aren't very popular in Skoolie or Vanlife, and with good reason.
Your fixtures are your business. There are so many options and they pretty much come down more to your personal taste and style than mechanical application. Please check The Water Page for some options.
As with your Solar Setup, be sure you include Water System Elements and Plumbing when you do your final Design. The most space consuming part will be The Fresh Water Storage Tank, potentially followed by the Water Heater, so check for those measurements online if you can't buy the items before you start.
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